June 22,
We reached Nizhny at 5 in the
morning. As has been the custom in my travels, I hardly slept. 5 am in the
morning also meant that it was bright sunshine outside the station. We had to
go through a lot of trouble to buy our hotel stay in Nizhny Novgorod or ‘Nino’
as Shaks insists everyone knows it by (Although I think she just read it once
and has clung to it as fact). The only hotel we found was 5 miles away from
city center. This, when we booked the place two months in advance. So, we got
out and went to take the metro. It was weird to reach the metro gate and see it
locked. Everyone had to wait for the gates to open which was a change from
major cities like St. Petersburg and Moscow but then how many cities are as big
as those two. The gates were opened by a guard at 6 am.
Google had told us that we
had a ride from the train station and it was going to be a 4 minutes’ walk from
there to the hotel. Surprise! we went inside the metro which turned out to be confusing
again. The list of stations didn't match Google maps and I wasn't going to
another wrong track right after the mishap last night. I am not that
incompetent. Therefore, I made sure to
ask a Russian officer showing him the address. After confirmation that this
metro does go to the address we were going to, we boarded the metro train. What
do you know, we had indeed taken the wrong option. Google wanted us to not take
a metro but a tram. Good news though
this was going to take us close enough to walk to the hotel as I saw the
station in the map. The Russian officer had been right in his own way. Second good news that now I knew the difference between map
symbols for metro and tram. See, I am not that incompetent.
The station wasn't anywhere
near close enough when I got down and looked at the trusty Google maps for the
shortest way to walk. Google was telling me that It was a 40-minute walk which
didn't pass the eye test at all. The hotel
was right there! So, I decided to ditch Google this time and just jay walk
across a big road. That risk brought the time down to a brisk 15-minute walk
and let me tell you that with my back pack and Shaks’ bruising duffel bag it
was no walk in the park. I mean that metaphorically, as literally, it was a walk
in the park. No really, we had to cross a trail through an actual park to get
there. On the way, we saw abandoned building with windows smashed. I say
its park and that is what it was called but it would be fairer to call it
woods. The trail was not maintained at all. It seemed like this used to be an
industrial town but now it was a set up for a horror story arc of our travels
with abandoned buildings, empty warehouses, large factory silhouettes standing
silently in distance… you get the picture.
Continuing with the horror
story motif, we reached the hotel only after walking back and forth a couple times
because it was a small in-road easy to miss from the main street. Strike 1:
horror hotel in outskirts, hard to get to. Then when we finally located the road,
before we could enter, a Russian woman smoking cigarette on the side told us
something in her language and waved her hand to stop us from going forward. We
smiled at her, told her we have reservation and moved ahead. Strike 2: a person
warning us to turn back but we ignore/don't understand her. As soon as I opened
the door, a strong smell of antiseptic and chlorine hit me. If you have been to
hospitals in India in early 90s, then you know what I am talking about. The
stairs to our 3rd floor room were wide like the ones you see in hospitals as
well. So, strike 3: I suspect my hotel used to be a hospital. This horror movie
writes itself.
With my senses tingling, like
any sensible person who has seen horror movies, I ignored all these signs and
crashed onto the bed. I really needed to sleep. I had a deep sleep as well. I
woke up once and that was when I heard our door slam and shaks yell “who is it?”.
Strike 4: No one answered. Well, probably one of the maids had opened the door.
We went back to sleep. Once we were up and had taken a good shower, it was time
to get to our cab which was already waiting. So, I grabbed our passports while
shaks opened the door, or tried to. It was locked, and the key which had
been left in the key hole when the hostess showed us the room wasn't there. Someone
had opened our room, taken out the key and locked it from outside! Strike 5:
locked in the suspicious room, I tried to look around but no key. Shaks then
called the reception and explained to someone who didn’t understand much English
that we were locked in our room. At the same time, I sent a text to our cab
driver, who was still waiting that we will take some time. The cab driver
texted us back to after 5 minutes to ask what is happening? Finally, someone
came and opened our door. Now we couldn’t just leave as soon as we got out. We
had to go to the reception and explain again that we couldn’t find the key. The
maids were asked and they said they didn’t take any key. Meanwhile, slightly
disconcertingly the cab driver texted me “are you alright?” was this strike 6?
I didn’t know. Promising the reception that we will look for the key again when
we get back and getting a promise from them in return that they will let us in
to our room in the night, we finally escaped to our cab.
Our cab driver turned out to
have visited Boston. He had worked for a few months in Boston laying electric
cables. That is hard, honest work. Chit chatting with him, we reached Nino and
suddenly were in midst of an actual, honest to god, nice city. Nino has one
major street which spans few blocks that is the city center. No cars in those
blocks, it’s a nice area to walk in. surrounding that block are the kremlin on
one side, few other parks on the other side and the end is a square where there
was a fan fest being held for all the fans. Just like other cities. The street
was full of Argentinian and Croatian fans. More Argentinians than Croatians but
they were out in good numbers too. Lots of Argentina fans sporting wigs/ face
paints and flags. There were so many Argentinian flags that they had draped
statues with it and left it there. We had stepped out of our hotel, ready to go
to the match after walking through Nino. Shaks was sporting her Argentina top,
and I had the Argentina jacket to show my support.
Oh yes, before I get into the
match, let me tell you about our Gucci conundrum. After we had food in an English
pub for a change, we kept walking around Nino and got to a street that Shaks
had noted we should explore too. It was a wide street with bunch of shops that
were selling branded stuff. We walked into one of them, they had Hugo boss, Gucci
t-shirts then they had accessories as well. Shaks tried a few things but wasn’t
really taken by them. But then her eyes caught the Gucci bags on the display.
She was even more excited when she saw the price. It was one third the price of
the same bag in USA! She would have bought the bags right then as well but we
had to go to watch the match. And as is my wont, I always discourage Shaks from
buying stuff because I think I should act as a buffer to her shopping
decisions. So, we decided to walk back to the shop the next day before we leave
Nino and get that great deal.
Alright let’s talk football.
You had think that this was a trip where we stumbled onto matches by accident,
so less have I mentioned football in these pages. It changes now. I was excited
to see Messi. So excited in fact that I sent a pic of the stadium to my mates
with caption “Messi! Messi!” I don’t usually do these things so you can imagine
how much I was looking forward to see Messi. I had gone to see Barcelona in USA
but Messi had taken a break. I was only able to see my second favorite Barca
player Iniesta and what a player he is. I remember first watching Iniesta and
my jaw dropped when I saw this slightly bald, probably a clerk who had stumbled
onto the pitch, take an amazing first touch and turn with the ball. Then Iniesta
proceeded to glide forward with the football, while mesmerized defenders
started somehow moving even slower than him. I couldn’t believe that this guy
was on Barcelona bench and had come out in the last 10 minutes. That was 2006.
By 2008 Iniesta was one of the best mid fielders in the world. But I digress,
we are here to talk Messi. I don’t know how to talk about him. Much better
writers than I have heaped adulation on the diminutive man. All I can say is
that I have felt lucky to see Messi play and make abnormal normal with football
at his feet. He has changed football and I am sure the likes of Eden Hazard,
Mbappe, Kevin De Bruyne have a new appreciation and awareness of what is
possible with a football. So yes, I was looking forward to Messi, hoping we get
to see a moment of magic.
Now that we have talked
football, let’s talk the match itself. Shaks and I stuffed into a bus and were
driven to the Nizhny Novgorod stadium. All the way, I was impressed by the Croatian
crowd’s ability to match the larger Argentinian crowd. I felt that they had
much shorter and to the point chants. Just one line, or call and response.
Argentinians, on the other hand and long, rousing chants. One that I don’t
understand which Croatians were singing was something something “Messi puro
champion” Argentinians had no response to that. Finally, we walked out and
entered the stadium. There was a huge roar when Messi was announced and similar
but smaller roar for Luka Modric. I like Luka as well, even when he played for
Spurs. This was a feisty match. The section we were in had me slightly
concerned. We were on level 2. Level 1 was all Croatian fans with top few rows
of Argentinians. Then level 2 had Argentinian fans in front and Croatians fans
again at the back. So we were sandwiched between Croatian fans. Then right next
to the Argentinian fans below me were 4 Croatian fans in their 50s. As the
match went on , they played more critical role in our section. The match was
bad if you think from Argentina perspective. They were sleepwalking and Messi
had no space. He always had three players around him as soon as he received the
ball. No one in the Argentina team was making runs to exploit the space this
triple team on Messi was providing. Even the best player in the world can’t do
much at this stage. The Croatians rose into volume as the match went on. After
all, they were the underdogs, playing against last world cups finalists. The 4
guys I talked about were standing right at the railing of level 2. They were
doing call and response with the contingent below and then looking back behind
us and continuing the chant. I could feel the Argentinians sitting next to them
getting frustrated both with the match and there constant yelling right in
front of the. I have to admit it was slightly provocative. First half ended
like that. Then disaster struck in the second half, a terrible mistake by the
goal keeper gifted Croatia the first goal. It seemed to take whatever fight
Argentina had left out of them. Messi had to drop even further to try
something. Tempers were getting high on the ground and in our section as well. The
4 Croatian fans were still at it, not in their seats, but right at the railing,
looking both at the Argentinian fans and looking back at the rest of the
Croatian fans. In Moscow, the security was really strict, once the match
started they didn’t allow anyone to leave their seats and stand near the
railing. Now it made sense why. Here, there was a teen girl who was wearing security
vest. She was never going to come and ask these guys to sit down. Then on the
pitch in 73rd or so minute Messi had a tiff with an opposition
player. That was the spark that lit the building tension. The 4 provocateurs
leaned into the Argentinians faces and started shouting ‘Messi Puta’ , ‘Messi
Puta’. One Argentinian had enough and he threw a punch at one of them. It didn’t
really connect. I thought this was a start of big brawl and we were right in
between the two sets of fans. Thankfully, the punch only was seen by small
group of people and didn’t spawn a bigger fight. Some more security came to our
section and stood there to mediate. Curiously, they also didn’t ask these 4 guys
to go back to their seats. So, they kept provoking and they were really good at
using words to cut the Argentinians. I didn’t have any stake in this but even I
was annoyed by them. Then at 80th minute Luka managed a great goal. From
20 or so yards away he curled a beautiful shot into the net. Goal keeper could
only flail at it. The fans above me erupted and threw a bunch of beers in their
cups down so I got a fair few drops on me too. I am surprised that after this
Croatia scored only one more goal as Argentina had already quit. This match in
a weird way was a real downer for me. I had been annoyed by those 4 guys, with
beer being thrown on me and by the terrible display of Argentina. It has been a
long time since I felt so heart broken by a display. After the match was over,
I was afraid that there will be a fight breaking out because even as the match
was winding down with Croatia the clear winner and Argentinian fans with their
heads down in their seats, the terrible 4 were still at it. In fact, they would
even go and sit right next to the Argentinian who had thrown a punch before. He
refused to take his eyes off his phone thankfully. In view of this, as soon as
the match got over, I wanted to get shaks out of that section. But guess what,
shaks went down next to the warring sets of fans to take more pictures. One of
the 4 Croatian dudes happily decided she wanted a picture with him and posed
with her. She came back and told me, he told her, I am your fathers age. I
understand Shaks, that we not coming back to this stadium and watching a world
cup match, but I really didn’t want to take pics, I felt it was disrespectful
to the team we were supporting, to brush off the loss so easily. It is very
silly, as there were plenty Argentinians who I’m sure would have taken pictures
but that’s just me. By the way, just after Shaks was done with pics, there was
another scuffle when an Argentinian went right between those guys and put his
hands on the railing slightly pushing them away. But by this time, Security was
again back and they stepped in again. He protested that he was just untying the
flag which he was. So, things remained on the simmer on our side. Later, I saw a
video on the net of an alone Croatian fan getting beaten by Argentinians which
just shows terrible people are everywhere and not just on one side.
We took the bus and got back
to the city center of Nino. I had a large beer to drown my sorrow and Shaks
drowned hers in a Tiramisu cake. I am again surprised by how badly I have taken
this loss. It shouldn’t hurt this much. To top it off, we struggled to get home
because I didn’t have any cash. My battery was running low as well so we made
it to a bank to take out some cash. Their atm was closed. Then we stepped into
a couple markets to see if they had atm inside. They were not 7/11, they didn’t.
Finally, Shaks remembered that we had walked across an open atm before. So
tired and sad, we walked around until we saw that atm. By the time we took the
cash out, my phone was dead. Shaks’ phone was about to die as well and her
internet doesn’t work that great anyway so we had to walk back to the spot
where we had seen taxis. So finally, we got to the spot and reserved the taxi
back to our hotel at 2 am. I was so sad that I didn’t even realize that it was
strike 7: our phones were dead in the horror hotel arc.
We got back, and Shaks tried
to explain to the Russian lady with her expressive face and equally expressive
mime skills that our door was locked, someone needed to come up with us to open
our room. The lady was confused at her until she saw me and then she remembered
our morning issue. So Natasha came up and opened the door for us. I say Natasha
because she remembered me otherwise it would have been a nameless receptionist.
She is cute too now that I think about it. Shaks just rolled her eyes at me
when I shared Natasha’s good qualities with her. There was no further horror waiting
apart from the terrible smell that greeted us as we stepped into our room. It
was coming from some pipe in bathroom. Shaks went to do her routine of
freshening up and I dropped onto the bed. On a whim, I picked up the trousers I
was sleeping in in the morning. The pocket had the keys I thought someone had
taken from us. I was so sleepy in the morning that I had no recollection of
going to the door, taking out the key and locking it. So, the only horror after
all these strikes was the display of Argentina and we had already been through
it.
I am taking comfort from the
warmth of Shaks next to me in the bed. She slept as soon as she hit the bed. We
have to go tomorrow to the train station to store our luggage before we move on
with the rest of the day.
See you tomorrow.